STYLISH CABOCHON RUBY, AMETHYST AND GOLD 'STARFISH' BROOCH The articulated 18K gold starfish enhanced by pavé-set amethysts and oval cabochon rubies, circa 1938 Signed by R. Boivin Madame Boivin, like many jewelry designers, turned to nature for inspiration. The sea with its ever changing marine life appealed to her desire to capture the essence of nature. In 1926, she designed a 'wave' bangle, the first in the series of jewelry based on the sea and, within a few years, sea shell clip brooches appeared with images based on the ammonite and the whelk. Juliette Moutard, who joined the House of Boivin as a designer in 1933, is credited with designing the starfish jewelry; the first created for the actress Claudette Colbert in 1936. According to Francoise Cailles in Renè Boivin, Jeweller , "Everything about the starfish brooch was new: its realism, its large dimensions, its yellow gold mount, clearly visable, its camaieu decoration - a bed of faceted amethysts surmounted by a large cabochon ruby - and its mobility. Each arm was entirely articulated so that the jewel could reproduce the crawling movement of a living starfish." Rubies and amethysts simulate the actual 'tube feet' and muscles that carry the creature on its way across the bottom of the sea. Cf: Francoise Cailles, Renè Boivin, Jeweller , London, 1994.
STYLISH CABOCHON RUBY, AMETHYST AND GOLD 'STARFISH' BROOCH The articulated 18K gold starfish enhanced by pavé-set amethysts and oval cabochon rubies, circa 1938 Signed by R. Boivin Madame Boivin, like many jewelry designers, turned to nature for inspiration. The sea with its ever changing marine life appealed to her desire to capture the essence of nature. In 1926, she designed a 'wave' bangle, the first in the series of jewelry based on the sea and, within a few years, sea shell clip brooches appeared with images based on the ammonite and the whelk. Juliette Moutard, who joined the House of Boivin as a designer in 1933, is credited with designing the starfish jewelry; the first created for the actress Claudette Colbert in 1936. According to Francoise Cailles in Renè Boivin, Jeweller , "Everything about the starfish brooch was new: its realism, its large dimensions, its yellow gold mount, clearly visable, its camaieu decoration - a bed of faceted amethysts surmounted by a large cabochon ruby - and its mobility. Each arm was entirely articulated so that the jewel could reproduce the crawling movement of a living starfish." Rubies and amethysts simulate the actual 'tube feet' and muscles that carry the creature on its way across the bottom of the sea. Cf: Francoise Cailles, Renè Boivin, Jeweller , London, 1994.
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.jpg "Quelle: Christie's")
.jpg "Quelle: Christie's")
