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Auktionsarchiv: Los-Nr. 132

An exceedingly rare Imperial kesi orange-ground twelve-symbol robe

Fine Chinese Art
07.11.2019
Schätzpreis
150.000 £ - 250.000 £
ca. 192.356 $ - 320.594 $
Zuschlagspreis:
n. a.
Auktionsarchiv: Los-Nr. 132

An exceedingly rare Imperial kesi orange-ground twelve-symbol robe

Fine Chinese Art
07.11.2019
Schätzpreis
150.000 £ - 250.000 £
ca. 192.356 $ - 320.594 $
Zuschlagspreis:
n. a.
Beschreibung:

The Property of a Gentleman 紳士藏品 An exceedingly rare Imperial kesi orange-ground twelve-symbol robe 19th century The kesi ground finely worked in satin stitches in shades of blue, green, red, aubergine and ochre couched vibrant gold threads with nine five-clawed dragons pursuing 'flaming pearls' amidst trialling ruyi clouds interspersed with bats; the Twelve Imperial Symbols arranged in three groups of four beginning with the sun, moon, constellation and mountains around the neck; the axe head, the fu symbol, paired dragons and pheasant around the upper body of the robe; the water weed, pair of sacrificial vessels, fire and grain above the terrestrial diagram and lishui stripe at the hem, all interspersed with the Eight Buddhist Emblems and further dragons emerging from rolling waves, against a rich apricot ground; the matching dark blue-ground cuffs and collar worked with further dragons amidst bats, clouds and waves, below sleeve extensions woven with roundels depicting further dragons chasing flaming pearls, lined in original imperial yellow silk, with a three-character inscription and seal mark on the inside flap. 183cm (72in) wide x 145cm (57in) long. Fußnoten 十九世紀 御製杏黃地緙絲金龍十二章紋龍袍 Provenance: Linda Wrigglesworth, London, 1997 A Western private collection 來源:英國倫敦古董商,Linda Wrigglesworth,1997年 西方私人收藏 RISING TO POWER THE HIDDEN TALES OF A SUBLIME IMPERIAL 'TWELVE-SYMBOL' APRICOT-GROUND ROBE Linda Wrigglesworth Superbly woven in the refined kesi technique with nine resplendent, lively, five-clawed dragons riding the heavens and finely worked in metallic gold threads amidst a profusion of shaded blue trailing clouds interspersed with the Twelve Symbols of Imperial Sovereignty, the present robe is exceptionally rare for its pristine condition. No identical examples would appear to have been preserved in public collections. The yellow lining, dragon cuffs, neck bands and gold brocade edgings are all original to the robe. In addition, the imperial dragons emerging from the turbulent waves and the roundels depicting further dragons, woven within the rich midnight-blue ground of the sleeve extensions, are very unusual and rarely encountered on imperial orange-ground robes. This robe probably dates to the 1880s and may have been worn by the Guangxu emperor (1871-1908) during the earlier years of his reign. The apricot-orange colour xinghuang, is referred to in the Huangchao liqi tushi 皇朝禮器圖式 ('Illustrated Precedents for the Ritual Paraphernalia of the Imperial Court'), edited in 1759, as one of the 'Five Imperial Yellows' used at the Qing Court, which could only be worn by Princes and Princesses of the First Rank and Imperial Consorts of the Second and Third Degree (See note 1). Following the death of the Tongzhi emperor in 1875 and in the absence of an immediate heir, his mother, the formidable Dowager empress Cixi, designated her four-year old nephew, Zaitian, to be successor to the throne as the Guangxu emperor, although she continued to be in control of the government for the first fourteen years of the new ruler's reign (See note 2). At this time, the court dress legislation, promulgated by the Qianlong emperor more than a century earlier, appears to have become similarly adapted to these new circumstances. Not only do numerous portraits depict the Dowager empress wearing imperial yellow robes, as was appropriate to her rank, but also a few 'Twelve-Symbol' robes, dating to the Guangxu emperor's reign, survive displaying a wide range of the basic ground colours. These deviations probably reflected Cixi's break from the Court conventions of previous times, particularly when she appointed her nephew Zaitian, a cousin of the Tongzhi emperor's, to succeed him (See note 3). Within this context, an apricot-ground 'Twelve-Symbol' robe would have certainly been considered appropriate to signify the young Guangxu emperor's status as heir apparent, when he had not yet formally assumed control of the government (See note 4). The quintessent

Auktionsarchiv: Los-Nr. 132
Auktion:
Datum:
07.11.2019
Auktionshaus:
Bonhams London
London, New Bond Street 101 New Bond Street London W1S 1SR Tel: +44 20 7447 7447 Fax : +44 207 447 7401 info@bonhams.com
Beschreibung:

The Property of a Gentleman 紳士藏品 An exceedingly rare Imperial kesi orange-ground twelve-symbol robe 19th century The kesi ground finely worked in satin stitches in shades of blue, green, red, aubergine and ochre couched vibrant gold threads with nine five-clawed dragons pursuing 'flaming pearls' amidst trialling ruyi clouds interspersed with bats; the Twelve Imperial Symbols arranged in three groups of four beginning with the sun, moon, constellation and mountains around the neck; the axe head, the fu symbol, paired dragons and pheasant around the upper body of the robe; the water weed, pair of sacrificial vessels, fire and grain above the terrestrial diagram and lishui stripe at the hem, all interspersed with the Eight Buddhist Emblems and further dragons emerging from rolling waves, against a rich apricot ground; the matching dark blue-ground cuffs and collar worked with further dragons amidst bats, clouds and waves, below sleeve extensions woven with roundels depicting further dragons chasing flaming pearls, lined in original imperial yellow silk, with a three-character inscription and seal mark on the inside flap. 183cm (72in) wide x 145cm (57in) long. Fußnoten 十九世紀 御製杏黃地緙絲金龍十二章紋龍袍 Provenance: Linda Wrigglesworth, London, 1997 A Western private collection 來源:英國倫敦古董商,Linda Wrigglesworth,1997年 西方私人收藏 RISING TO POWER THE HIDDEN TALES OF A SUBLIME IMPERIAL 'TWELVE-SYMBOL' APRICOT-GROUND ROBE Linda Wrigglesworth Superbly woven in the refined kesi technique with nine resplendent, lively, five-clawed dragons riding the heavens and finely worked in metallic gold threads amidst a profusion of shaded blue trailing clouds interspersed with the Twelve Symbols of Imperial Sovereignty, the present robe is exceptionally rare for its pristine condition. No identical examples would appear to have been preserved in public collections. The yellow lining, dragon cuffs, neck bands and gold brocade edgings are all original to the robe. In addition, the imperial dragons emerging from the turbulent waves and the roundels depicting further dragons, woven within the rich midnight-blue ground of the sleeve extensions, are very unusual and rarely encountered on imperial orange-ground robes. This robe probably dates to the 1880s and may have been worn by the Guangxu emperor (1871-1908) during the earlier years of his reign. The apricot-orange colour xinghuang, is referred to in the Huangchao liqi tushi 皇朝禮器圖式 ('Illustrated Precedents for the Ritual Paraphernalia of the Imperial Court'), edited in 1759, as one of the 'Five Imperial Yellows' used at the Qing Court, which could only be worn by Princes and Princesses of the First Rank and Imperial Consorts of the Second and Third Degree (See note 1). Following the death of the Tongzhi emperor in 1875 and in the absence of an immediate heir, his mother, the formidable Dowager empress Cixi, designated her four-year old nephew, Zaitian, to be successor to the throne as the Guangxu emperor, although she continued to be in control of the government for the first fourteen years of the new ruler's reign (See note 2). At this time, the court dress legislation, promulgated by the Qianlong emperor more than a century earlier, appears to have become similarly adapted to these new circumstances. Not only do numerous portraits depict the Dowager empress wearing imperial yellow robes, as was appropriate to her rank, but also a few 'Twelve-Symbol' robes, dating to the Guangxu emperor's reign, survive displaying a wide range of the basic ground colours. These deviations probably reflected Cixi's break from the Court conventions of previous times, particularly when she appointed her nephew Zaitian, a cousin of the Tongzhi emperor's, to succeed him (See note 3). Within this context, an apricot-ground 'Twelve-Symbol' robe would have certainly been considered appropriate to signify the young Guangxu emperor's status as heir apparent, when he had not yet formally assumed control of the government (See note 4). The quintessent

Auktionsarchiv: Los-Nr. 132
Auktion:
Datum:
07.11.2019
Auktionshaus:
Bonhams London
London, New Bond Street 101 New Bond Street London W1S 1SR Tel: +44 20 7447 7447 Fax : +44 207 447 7401 info@bonhams.com
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