Beschreibung:

A RARE ANTIQUE DIAMOND CLUSTER BRACELET The center set with a rose-cut diamond five-stone link, joined to a series of graduating rose-cut diamond three-stone links, mounted in silver and gold, French, circa 1750--7 ins. long In the 17th Century, diamonds had become the premier stone in jewelry design but it was not until the next century, with the emergence of a new design aesthetic emphasizing gemstones, that the stone established itself as the dominant element of jewelry design. Throughout the century, the cut or faceted stone gradually came to dominate the setting with goldsmithing and enameling playing a lesser role. By the end of the century, most jewelry became little more than vehicles for lavish displays of gemstones. The rose-cut was particularly instrumental in establishing the diamond as the foremost stone. Introduced in the 16th Century, it gained in popularity during the 17th Century due in large part to the encouragement of Cardinal Mazarin who is credited with supporting lapidaries in their work on improving both the actual method and the cutting of diamonds. A rose-cut diamond is said to resemble an unopened rosebud. It is cut with a flat base and a convex crown with 24 facets. When introduced, this new cut greatly increased the amount of light entering the stone, heightening its life; a revelation after the table cut in which only the tip of the rough stone was polished away.