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Auktionsarchiv: Los-Nr. 645

A PAIR OF IMPORTANT ANTIQUE CARVED EMERALD DROP PENDANTS

Auction 13.11.1995
13.11.1995 - 15.11.1995
Schätzpreis
480.000 CHF - 540.000 CHF
ca. 420.018 $ - 472.521 $
Zuschlagspreis:
619.500 CHF
ca. 542.086 $
Auktionsarchiv: Los-Nr. 645

A PAIR OF IMPORTANT ANTIQUE CARVED EMERALD DROP PENDANTS

Auction 13.11.1995
13.11.1995 - 15.11.1995
Schätzpreis
480.000 CHF - 540.000 CHF
ca. 420.018 $ - 472.521 $
Zuschlagspreis:
619.500 CHF
ca. 542.086 $
Beschreibung:

A PAIR OF IMPORTANT ANTIQUE CARVED EMERALD DROP PENDANTS Weighing 42.61 and 56.33 carats and measuring approximately 24.3 x 20.5 x 12.78 and 24.2 x 20.3 x 16 mm. respectively Because of their size and the fact that they are a pair, these emerald drops carved with irises were almost certainly intended as either matching pendants to be suspended from a necklace or earrings for a man. In contemporary miniature paintings Mughal Emperors and their heirs are depicted wearing, among other jewellery, simple but exquisite necklaces of a single row of the choicest pearls with pairs of matching and balancing large emerald and ruby beads interposed at regular intervals (reference may be made to the painting of the Mughal Emperor Jahangir by Abul Hasan dated 1620, in the Freer Gallery of Art, Smithsonian Institute, Washington, and the painting of Shah Jahan as a Prince by the same artist in 1616-1617, in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London). The fashion for men wearing earrings was introduced into courtly circles during the reign of Jahangir (1605-1625) possibly by the Emperor himself. There are many illustrations of the way in which they were worn in album and book painting portraits as well as durbar scenes in which courtiers and high officials are formally grouped around the Emperor. The usual form of earring was either a single pearl or, as in the case of these emerald drops, a single drop gem flanked by paired pearls (Stuart Cary Welch, India: Art and Culture 1300 to 1900, catalogue of an exhibition held in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, from September 14, 1985 to January 5, 1986, p. 189, no. 118, and upper left portrait on p. 226, no. 148). The closest parallel to the present drops is an emerald pendant in the al-Sabah collection, Kuwait (Stuart Cary Welch, ibid., p.203, no. 131) which is decorated with poppies rendered in the same way as the irises on the drops. In both, the flowers are reduced to essential features rendered in light relief. The al-Sabah pendant has been dated to the second quarter of the 17th century which may possibly be the date of the carvings on the present emeralds. There exist a number of emeralds - many in their natural hexagonal prismatic form - which are decorated with flowers or even trees in relief or engraved with inscriptions. The only dated one is in the Caplan collection (Stuart Cary Welch, ibid., p.273, no. 180). This flat rectangular emerald is rather densely decorated with carnations and other flowers with every detail rendered in relief, on the one side, and engraved with religious invocations and the date A.H. 1107/1696-7 A.D. on the other. Although the iris does not figure in any of these, it is common enough in textiles and marginal illuminations of the 17th century. It is known that this pair of emeralds was formerly in the possession of one of the premier families of the Princes of India. Among their ancestors were renowned Prime Ministers of the Mughal Emperors. The Emperors often rewarded distinguished servants of the State for their exceptional services in high office with gifts of fine jewellery as well as other honours and awards. It is possible that these beads were part of just such a gift. Ralph Pinder Wilson Ralph Pinder Wilson served from 1949 in the Department of Oriental Antiquities in the British Museum and from 1969 to 1976 was Deputy Keeper. From 1976 to 1982, he was Director of the British Institute of Afghan Studies, Kabul. (2)

Auktionsarchiv: Los-Nr. 645
Auktion:
Datum:
13.11.1995 - 15.11.1995
Auktionshaus:
Christie's
Geneva
Beschreibung:

A PAIR OF IMPORTANT ANTIQUE CARVED EMERALD DROP PENDANTS Weighing 42.61 and 56.33 carats and measuring approximately 24.3 x 20.5 x 12.78 and 24.2 x 20.3 x 16 mm. respectively Because of their size and the fact that they are a pair, these emerald drops carved with irises were almost certainly intended as either matching pendants to be suspended from a necklace or earrings for a man. In contemporary miniature paintings Mughal Emperors and their heirs are depicted wearing, among other jewellery, simple but exquisite necklaces of a single row of the choicest pearls with pairs of matching and balancing large emerald and ruby beads interposed at regular intervals (reference may be made to the painting of the Mughal Emperor Jahangir by Abul Hasan dated 1620, in the Freer Gallery of Art, Smithsonian Institute, Washington, and the painting of Shah Jahan as a Prince by the same artist in 1616-1617, in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London). The fashion for men wearing earrings was introduced into courtly circles during the reign of Jahangir (1605-1625) possibly by the Emperor himself. There are many illustrations of the way in which they were worn in album and book painting portraits as well as durbar scenes in which courtiers and high officials are formally grouped around the Emperor. The usual form of earring was either a single pearl or, as in the case of these emerald drops, a single drop gem flanked by paired pearls (Stuart Cary Welch, India: Art and Culture 1300 to 1900, catalogue of an exhibition held in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, from September 14, 1985 to January 5, 1986, p. 189, no. 118, and upper left portrait on p. 226, no. 148). The closest parallel to the present drops is an emerald pendant in the al-Sabah collection, Kuwait (Stuart Cary Welch, ibid., p.203, no. 131) which is decorated with poppies rendered in the same way as the irises on the drops. In both, the flowers are reduced to essential features rendered in light relief. The al-Sabah pendant has been dated to the second quarter of the 17th century which may possibly be the date of the carvings on the present emeralds. There exist a number of emeralds - many in their natural hexagonal prismatic form - which are decorated with flowers or even trees in relief or engraved with inscriptions. The only dated one is in the Caplan collection (Stuart Cary Welch, ibid., p.273, no. 180). This flat rectangular emerald is rather densely decorated with carnations and other flowers with every detail rendered in relief, on the one side, and engraved with religious invocations and the date A.H. 1107/1696-7 A.D. on the other. Although the iris does not figure in any of these, it is common enough in textiles and marginal illuminations of the 17th century. It is known that this pair of emeralds was formerly in the possession of one of the premier families of the Princes of India. Among their ancestors were renowned Prime Ministers of the Mughal Emperors. The Emperors often rewarded distinguished servants of the State for their exceptional services in high office with gifts of fine jewellery as well as other honours and awards. It is possible that these beads were part of just such a gift. Ralph Pinder Wilson Ralph Pinder Wilson served from 1949 in the Department of Oriental Antiquities in the British Museum and from 1969 to 1976 was Deputy Keeper. From 1976 to 1982, he was Director of the British Institute of Afghan Studies, Kabul. (2)

Auktionsarchiv: Los-Nr. 645
Auktion:
Datum:
13.11.1995 - 15.11.1995
Auktionshaus:
Christie's
Geneva
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